3 public entrances

The swamp expands to 180.000 hectares and is mostly protected. There are 3 entrances to the swamp – all three are located in Georgia: by Folkston in the East, in the South by Fargo and in the North by Waycross.

In the Stephen C. Foster State Park which is located south you can rent canoes, kayaks and motor boats, go fishing, enjoy a guided tour or go hiking. The Fargo Folkston entrances are used mainly by adventurers for canoe tours – there are several spots in the swamp to spend the night at.

Boat tour at Okefenokee Swamp Park

We visited Waycross, Georgia in November where the Okefenokee Swamp Park is located. Right at the entrance we had an encounter with a huge alligator which obviously enjoys to rest on a small island within a narrow channel left of the visitor parking lot. The visitor center provides information about the tours.

One of these tours is a boat tour with a small motor boat using the swamp’s water roads. We were lucky: due to a hurricane the previous  day, visitor load was very low, the park was basically empty. The tour guides has information about flora and fauna and tells stories about the park while we were travelling cozily in the channels of the park. Alligators are everywhere, quite likely right next to us. We saw some young alligators which were nurtured at the sides of the channels. We did not spot fully grown alligator during the tour.

The water tour stops once – at an observation tower reachable by a walk on a bridge. The tower is approximately 30 meters high and provides a stunning view over the vastness of the swamp and the high tree tops where many different bird species live. After 45 minutes the tour ends.

Train tour and animal encounters

As a second tour option is a ride on the small train with a little steam engine. The tour goes 1,5 miles through the park. The train drives very slowly – almost walking speed. It stops on a little island where an exhibition about the early settlements of the swamp is shown. It is a nice tour, although the first one is a little more spectacular. Maybe you should first do the train first tour and the boat tour after that.

Back at our starting point, the visitor center, we watched a 30 minute presentation in which animals of the swamp where shown. At least it is NOT some kind of circus thing – the animals (snakes, baby alligators e.g.) are just shown for a moment while some interesting facts about the species and life of these animals are given. Afterwards they go back into some boxes. We sa some baby alligators, very little ones that are only a few months old and slightly older ones that are still tiny. I asked where they come from an the answer was: 2 animals per year can be held in captivity for educational purposes.

Having this presentation at all and presenting these animals at all is debatable and maybe questionable. Of course it is interesting to learn about the animals of the swamp. But do you really need to see a living animal for demonstration purposes? The animals were looking fine, they did not seem to suffer (as far as I can judge). To me, this presentation is not a reason to boycott the park because they treated their animals respectfully. 2 alligators per year are arguable – there are also living alligators in zoos for example. The animals were not severely bothered during the presentation, so I can accept this (in other parks I have a different opinion).

During the train tour we could see some Christmas decoration. The typical Santa Claus Figures, reindeer, sleighs etc. where positioned near the tour. In the South it’s obviously only Christmas when some fancy decoration is arranged – just like the snow fits to Christmas in Germany. I personally don’t need to see that but it didn’t really bother me.

See also article on Atlanta

Atmosphere of the swamp

Remarkable in the swamp is the very dark prevailing mood. Despite of bright daylight everywhere else the water is almost black and you always expect some alligator beneath every water lily. The black color of the water comes from the many dead plants and derives from the fact that it is marsh land (“Blackwater River”). According to the tour guide a lot of water was evaporated during the summer – consequently, the level was too low. Because of that the water appeared even darker. The atmosphere of the Okefenokee Swamp is very unique, difficult to describe and capture in words. It is dark and mysterious – like from a louring fairy tale.

Organisation Tips

Due to the size of the swamp it is necessary to pick one entrance. It is not possible to drive to more than one entrance in a day. Within the swamp there are no roads, only waterstreets. A car doesn’t help here. By car, the only option is to travel the long distance around the swamp. In the swamp, only boat traveling is possible. Okefenokee is not really easily accessible. We traveled from Tallahassee but it takes around three hours till Waycross (150 Miles). In the South, distances are always long and that is something that has to be considered – we started to travel early that day so we reached early enough to spend enough time in the Okefenokee Swamp Park.

From Jacksonville, the swamp area is easier to reach by the North entrance in Folkston. But here it is best to rent a canoe and go paddling. That would be surely a great adventure but for us not the right thing for the first visit. I wouldn’t want to paddle and suddenly an alligator is swimming right next to me. Moreover the swamp is a huge maze consisting of water streets, moor, swamp, land and lagoons. I would have quite some problems to know where I am and I would defintely need a tour guide. But anyway, it would certainly be a great adventure to once do a canoe tour with someone who knows the area!

Der Beitrag Okefenokee Swamp at the Border of Georgia/Florida: A Blackwater River Swamp erschien zuerst auf travelspotting.

Three Entrances to the park

The national park at the very southern end of Florida needs to be on every Florida travel route. In the Everglades, the ocean becomes land and land becomes ocean. This tropical wilderness between sea water and fresh water has created a special environment and a biodiversity with a vast variety of species.
The northern border of the park is highway 41, leading from Naples in the east to Miami in the west. There are three different entrances to the park; we have visited two of them. Both offer an entirely different program.
If you are lucky, you get to see manatees, alligators and crocodiles (since one of it prefers fresh water the other salt water, that is very rare), several water- and wading birds (e.g. cormorant and heron) and lots of countryside and nature. Information about current problems is available with focus on environmental destruction and invasive species and as well as information about its history of settlement.

Gulf Coast Visitor Center and 10,000 islands: Sea Water Area of the Everglades

It takes 1 hour (60 km) to drive from Naples to the Gulf Coast Visitor Center, the visitor center closest to Florida’s gulf coast. In terms of ecology, the national park is split into two parts: the first part is called 10,000 islands and describes the sea water part, hundreds of small and tiny islands in the ocean, a maze of water streets, mangroves, trees and tiny islands. The second part describes the fresh water part of the park. Here the ocean is no longer visible but has become a swamp area, already mainland but still full of water. The ranger lady stood in the water of the swamp waist-deep, all the fresh water pushes up from the ground.

The 10,000 islands – salt water part of the Everglades – are a colorful collection of mangroves and waterstreets that can only be explored by boat. To me it felt, as if I had already reached the ocean and was no longer on the mainland. Due to the sheer size and variety of the area, I would not have been able to find the right way without a tour guide. The visitor center offers a boat tour. If you are lucky, dolphins will be there. Birds will definitely be there and even if you are unlucky and do not see a single animal, the nature of the Everglades itself is worth the trip. It absolutely stunningly beautiful!

The visitor center can be reached on Highway 41 and Interstate 75. Just follow the signs that say “Everglades City”. Parking is available at the visitor center. The visitor center provides all information about tours and prices.

Shark Valley Visitor Center

The Shark Valley Visitor Center is located another 50 minutes (70 km) east (following highway 41). This entrance to the Everglades offers an entirely different face of the park: water has become mainland: a huge swap and even a paved road are there. This is the fresh water part of the park. Except from the street, it feels like being in a jungle. It is a wetland full of reed, swamp with water waist-high and alligators that live in fresh water.

The paved road is a leftover from the time before the area was protected as a national park. It’s nowadays used for guided tours by train (not on tracks but on wheels). In addition, there are two smaller hiking paths and bicycles for rent. We did the train tour which was lead by a ranger. The tour took us through the swamp area, was fully narrated and the ranger talked about flora and fauna. We saw birds and an alligator.

The Shark Valley Visitor Center can be reached via highway 41, approximately 1 3/4 hours (130 km) from Naples. Parking is available in front of the visitor center.

Recommendations and Information about Different Tour Options

A quick first thought could be: why would I want to visit the Everglades twice? The answer is simple: because you get to see two totally different areas. The 10,000 island are water with many little islands and Shark Valley is a swamp land where hiking is possible. The Everglades look entirely different in both cases.

Before I was there, I imagined the Everglades to be a swamp area – just about what I saw in Shark Valley. The 10,000 islands was something totally new to me.

The third entrance Flamingo Center is located at the southern end of the Everglades. We ran out of time and could do all three entrances in one day. The Flamingo entrance was simply too far away. If you rush from one place to the other, it might work but we wanted to have time. Flamingo entrance is the main entrance to the park (reachable via Florida Turnpike from Miami or Florida City from the Keys). Flamingo has a port, a café and a campground. I didn’t see it so I cannot say anything else.

Time wise, we could only do two entrances in a day. If you want to do the third, plan an extra day. Coming from Naples, Flamingo Center is a bit off the route and difficult to reach.

Manatees – Floridas Mascot and Symbol in the Park

The “mascot” of Florida is the manatee. It’s a large, brown mammal living in the water. Manatees prefer fresh water and very warm water, shallow water, water with very little salt and like living close to the coast. Manatees are good-natured and herbivores. That is why Florida is a perfect place for them. Unfortunately, they are an endangered species. They like the water streets of the Everglades very much. I didn’t see any of them on our tours. I guess they are easier to spot in a kayak and in a smaller group of people outside the main roads somewhere between the mangroves and the smaller water streets.

Airboat Tour? – An Option?

To me the answer is no. On highway 41, there are many offers about air boat tours. Their ads follow you all the way along highway 41. I read in a travel book that these airboats are too loud and upset various animals. Also, these boats are causing many problems to manatees in Florida. As described above, manatees live in shallow water close to the coast. That is why they tend to crash the airboats’ screws and propellers. Manatees are a bit slow that means they hear the airboats coming but are to slow to get away. Supposedly, most manatees in the Everglades have airboat scars on their skin. I don’t know if all of this is true, but it could be and that is enough to know for me. That is why I would not recommend an airboat tour.

I know, environmental conscience, protection and tourism is an issue itself. Anyways, I think we should always prefer anything that is offered officially from the national parks and its rangers. At least, this way the national park makes money and the national park’s purpose is to protect and maintain nature. Also, the tours in the national park and entrance fees to the park are rather low, compared to for example all the parks in Orlando.

Der Beitrag Everglades Nationalpark – A park at the Land/Sea Boundary erschien zuerst auf travelspotting.

Key West is a very crazy island at the very southern end of Florida. You very clearly leave the subtropical area and reach the tropical climate: it is hot, very hot with a high humidity. We were there in October, not even the hottest period of the year.

The island has a very Cuban flair; you are really very close to Cuba, not only geographically. Its residents speak a different version of English, the coffee tastes more intense, somehow more Cuban and the atmosphere is unique. Life is different here, that becomes clear when you consider that these islands have indeed declared their independence from the US once. In 1982, the issue of border controls in the Upper Keys kept everyone busy and emotional. That is why the keys formed an independent state (Conch Republic) but only for a day.

The most southern point of the US (for some reason called the Southernmost Point) is here. They used to have a sign about this, but the sign got stolen too many times. Now they have a buoy. We walked all the way there and definitely underestimated the tropical heat. It was exhausting to walk at all. On the way to the buoy, you find many “southernmost”, like the southernmost hairdresser, café, supermarket, anything. In fact, there is an even more southern point but that is in the restricted military area further west. You can visit the buoy, do the walking tour, but to us it was a bit of “ok, we were there”.

Key West Downtown: Mallory Square, Duval Street, Sloppy Joes and Hemingway House

A not so nice way to put it is: Key West is a small, overly crowded, overly hot island. A nice way to say it is: it’s an island with its own attitude, strong Cuban influence but also big independence, strong temperament and everything a bit too crazy.

The two most important places in Key West are Mallory Square and Duvall Street. Mallory Square is always full of people; in the evenings the walls get crowded by people who sit there to watch the sunset. As soon as the midday heat leaves, street artists appear. There are little performances but also, art exhibits of sculptures and paintings. Mallory Square is in the northeast of the island. Tourist like to book boat tours for the sunset, you can see many boats right in front of the coast.

This is also where the most famous street of Key West starts: Duvall Street. Duvall Street is almost 2 km long, crosses the entire island and reaches from the Gulf of Mexico to the Atlantic. In Duvall Street various influences mix: Cuban, Bahamian and Victorian. There are many beautiful buildings. Two very well-known people were very fond of Key West: Ernest Hemingway and Harry Truman. Hemingway even stayed several years. The Hemingway House is in the old part of the city and can be visited. It’s only one block from Duvall Street at the southern end of the road. Its six-toed cats are a special feature, all of the descendant of Hemingway’s cat.

Key West has become a common stop for cruise ships. You should try to get information about their schedules and when there are too many of them around. I can totally imagine how the town gets overly crowded then. There was no cruise ship there when we were there, but the island was already crowded. Definitely choose a good date to come here.
Key West is a place where many runaway teenagers go to. It seems to be a kind of challenge to make it up until here.

The most popular bar in Key West is Sloppy Joes from 1933. After moving Sloppy Joes is now close to northern part of Duvall Street.

A very special feature is the Dry Tortugas National Park, which is a bit more than 100 km from Key West and can only be reached by ferry or plane. The ferry takes 2 ¼ hours (single ride). Dry Tortugas is a diving and snorkeling paradise. If you want to go here, you need to plan an entire day to do so. We did not have the time, but I definitely want to do that one day. I’m sure it’s a huge highlight.

https://www.nps.gov/drto/index.htm

https://www.drytortugas.com/

Shuttle Busses from the Hotels

We did stay in a hotel at the eastern end of the island. All the major tourist attractions are at the western part of the island. It does not appear to be far, when you check the map, you think this is easily doable. But that’s not really the case. It’s very tropical and very hot. Every step becomes more exhausting. Several hotels offered a shuttle bus to the city center together. I would definitely use that shuttle and let them take me to the center as close as possible. We walked; it was too much, definitely! Don’t take your own car, leave it at the hotel. There is no parking and no space in general in the center.

Route and Duration

From Miami to Key West, it’s 266 km. You need 4 hours for this. The road along the keys and their bridges is outstanding. You hop from island to bridge to island and can enjoy a view over the vastness of the ocean almost everywhere. It’s a very nice route; you should have time to enjoy it. There is no point in speeding to reach as fast as possible. One thing is definitely the case: it’s the way that counts. Bring enough time to stop at various points.
Our travel agency recommended two nights in Key West. At first, I was thinking that is too much. But now, I definitely agree. Like this, you have an entire day to drive from Miami to Key West. You have many nice spots to stop: the Everglades (Flamingo Visitor Center or Ernest F. Coe Visitor Center), Key Largo and John Pennekamp Nationalpark.

You continue your route along all the Keys till Key West. There are many options to stop. You should definitely do the 7-Mile-Bridge and Bahia Honda State Park. You can easily spend an entire day like this. In the evening, you can watch the sunset from Mallory Square. You then spend a full day in Key West (Duvall Street, Southernmost Point, Hemingway House, etc.). On the third day, you drive back to the main land. Depending on what you are interested in, you can spend the morning in Key West or go back to the mainland directly and stop several times. You can for example visit everything you missed on the way to Key West or everything you liked very much.

It’s always an option to book an additional night in Key Largo or the Everglades. I think you don’t really need it when you have two nights in Key West. One night in Key West is not enough, doable if you really, really don’t have more time and leave Key West in the afternoon/evening. But two nights is definitely much better!

I would absolutely recommend that tour to Key West. It’s a very nice route, but you need 3 days (2 days) to do it. If you don’t have that, I would not do it at all.

This is Part 2 Road Trip to the Most Southern Point: Key West, Mallory Square and Duvall Street.

Part 1 of the article can be found here:

Road trip to the Most Southern Point in the US: Part 1 On the Way to Key West

Der Beitrag Road Trip to the Most Southern Point: Part 2 Key West, Mallory Square and Duvall Street erschien zuerst auf travelspotting.

Heading to the Most Southern Point of the US: Key West and the Keys – Upper Keys, Middle Keys and Lower Keys – all of them reachable and connected by the Overseas Highway (No. 1)

The Florida Keys are a vast collection of little coral islands called keys. The chain of islands starts in the southeast of Florida, 26 km south of Miami. Final point of this route is Key West, it takes about 4 hours to reach from Miami (266 km). The 181.9-km-Overseas-Highway is basically a long-streched collection of roads and bridges.

The Keys can be split into three groups: Upper Keys, Middle Keys and Lower Keys. Upper and lower in this case refers to North and South. This is also the order I use to describe a few highlights on the route.

Because the Overseas Highway is a mere 180-km-straight, addresses and places have a mile marker in their name. Addresses use a five digit code, the first three digits refer to the miles on the road (including position after decimal point), the last two digits refer to the location of the address: odd numbers are at the Bay of Mexico, even numbers at the Atlantic Coast. The mile markers start in Key West, this is where you find the number 0. The higher the number, the closer you are to the main land.

One example: John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park address is 102601 Overseas Highway. This means it is on MM 102.5 at the Bay of Mexico. The first first important stop on this route is in the Upper Keys: Key Largo MM 91- 107.

Key Largo and John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park: Glass Bottom Boat Tour in the Park

Key Largo is one of the northern keys and relatively large, almost 53 km long. Of course there is the Overseas Highway, but Key Largo has a second connection to the main land (at the northern end of the island, Highway 905 to Florida City and the Everglades).
Very important in Key Largo are its surrounding Coral Reefs. These are protected as a State Park called John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park. It’s a paradise for divers and snorkelers. We did not do a snorkeling tour but a glass-bottom-boat tour. That means, the boat has a glass window at the bottom and you can see the underwater world from the boat.

It’s easy to organize: you just go to the visitor center, ask about the next tour and buy tickets. To shorten this: next time, I would go snorkeling instead. The boat tour is ok, quite nicely done but you don’t get to see a lot. The engines are turned off, the boat bobs up and down in the water. You stand behind a barrier all the time and look through that bottom window. This means you are very likely to get seasick. On the way to the riff, they provide various information on what to do in that case. We bought one of these preventative medicine, took it and and did not have to throw up. Probably, the medicine did their job. But we were anyways feeling quite bad on the way back. Most people on the boat looked rather troubled. These problems with motion sickness have to do with the general situation of being in a solid room (the boat), that moves in the waves and the fact that everyone stands at the barrier and looks down to that window at the riff which is again solid and not moving. On the boat they say our brain loses its point of reference, cannot handle the situation and reacts with dizziness and motion sickness.

To me, the size of the bottom windows turned out to be a flop. I expected huge windows where you can see large parts of the riff and the ocean. But that was not the case. The windows are two rather small windows where people gather around. Most parts of the ship are fairly regular.

A good thing about the tour was the audio guide. A female tour guide on the ship was an expert in recognizing and naming all the different fish. That was really interesting; her enthusiasm about it became very obvious.

The snorkeling tour stopped in close distance. Next time, I would definitely book that. I think you get to see much more and don’t get dizzy and sick.

Snorkeling tours are 30 dollar per person and take place several times a day. One tour is 2 ½ hours of which you spend 1 to 1 ½ hours in the water. There are also longer snorkeling tours (4 ½ hours). The Glass-Bottom-Boat-Tour is 24 dollars (2 ½ hours) and takes place four times a day. Information about all of this can be found on the website.

Another interesting option is to rent a canoe, kayak or Stand-Up-Board. Because Key Largo is so close to the mainland, you can paddle to the Everglades. I did not do it, but I want to come back for that one day.

Because of all the many options you have in Key Largo, you need to bring time. I think you can easily spend 2 full days here. If you don’t have that much time, you can at least spend a morning or afternoon here (on the way to or from Key West) and do some snorkeling or kayaking. If you just drive to Key West with no stop here, you miss the best part.
The Upper Keys continue another 50 km after Key Largo. Several smaller keys follow. End point of the Upper Keys is Long Key with the little town of Layton. The bridge between Long Key and Conch Key is called Long Key Bridge (official name: Dante B. Fascell Bridge) and is the second longest bridge on the route.

From the Middle Keys to the Lower Keys on the Seven-Mile-Bridge

The Middle Keys are mainly organized in the little town of Marathon and cover a distance of 45 km. Long Key has a protected area (Long Key State Park, MM 70), Long Point Key as well (Curry Hammock State Park, MM 56), Key Colony Beach has a beach.

The Seven-Mile-Bridge on MM 47 is an interesting spot. This is where the Middle Keys end. The bridge is the longest on the route. A new bridge became necessary because the old one was destroyed by the weather. The new bridge was built in 1982 and runs almost parallel to the old one. Pedestrians and cyclists can still use the old bridge. You can stop here and take a walking tour. It is indeed funny standing in one bridge and seeing the other one.

Bathing and Snorkeling in Bahia Honda State Park

Right after this bridge, there is Bahia Honda State Park on Big Pine Key in the Lower Keys. It’s a beach in a protected area (that means you need to pay to enter) from which you can see the old bridge quite well. The beach is nice, but compared to the rest of Florida rather small. The keys are not the right place for beautiful bathing beaches. You can stop and swim, but don’t expect too much. All islands are small and only have small beaches. Some areas in Big Pine Key are privately owned and not publicly accessible.

The beach was voted the number 1 beach in the US in 1992 (by Dr. Beach, a Florida Geology Professor). One thing that is always there is the wind: you are far into the ocean on a very flat island. There are definitely nicer places to sunbathe. The keys are more about nature and underwater worlds. You can hike or watch rare animals and plants, in particular birds.

https://www.floridastateparks.org/park/Bahia-Honda

This is Part 1 of the Article: Road trip to the Most Southern Point in the US: On the Way to Key West

Part 2 can be found here:

Road Trip to the Most Southern Point: Key West, Mallory Square and Duvall Street

Der Beitrag Road trip to the Most Southern Point in the US: On the Way to Key West erschien zuerst auf travelspotting.

Far Away From Everything Else: The Forgotten Coast and its Protected Areas

In Panama City, you reach the end of the Emerald Coast. Highway 98 continues along the coastline. Florida’s Forgotten Coast starts in Port St. Joe. Coming from the west, you can change routes and reach the interstate 10 up north in Panama City (highway 231) or Port St. Joe (highway 71). This is the option to drive directly to Tallahassee on the Interstate. On this northern route on I-10 and the little village Marianna, you can reach the Florida Caver State Park. These are the only cavers in Florida that are open to tourists. It only makes sense to do these caverns when you decide to stay on I-10 because you are now too far from the coast highway.

If you decide to not do that route, you can take the beautiful coastal highway 98 until St. Marks Wildlife Refuge. No matter how nice these coast routes are, you always need to consider that you cannot move fast at all. To do the entire route from New Orleans to Jacksonville on the coast highways, you need to plan several nights on the route. You can go from New Orleans to Jacksonville on the interstate in one or two days but you do not see get to see more than an interstate.

I liked all the retirement homes at the coast along that route, in particular for veteran homes. Spending your retirement like that is a dream, usually good weather and no cold winters.

There are many protected areas on route east of Panama City. For example the St. Marks I mentioned above (as the end point of the route) but also St. Joseph Bay and St. Vincent Wildlife Refuge. Further north, there is Walkulla Spring Park, a recreational area and common holiday destination for Americans with lots of flora and fauna. In Walkulla, the Tarzan Movie from 1938 was shot.

Tallahassee as a Stop

Floridas capital Tallahassee is now close. Tallahassee is not one of the most spectacular cities I have ever seen. But it makes sense as a stop after several days at the coast. Tallahassee it the biggest city in Florida’s North (180,000 people) and has many hotel options. Interesting for tourists are two places: Goodwood Plantation and Museum (a former cotton plantation) and the Knott House Museum, that shows an exhibit about Florida’s history.

In Tallahassee you have temporarily left the coastline. You now have three options to continue your route.

You can go east to Jacksonville and the Atlantic Coast. Again on I-10, it takes 3 hours. You can continue your route further south from here.

A second option is to go north from Jacksonville to Savannah and Charleston.

See Georgia Island

We chose a third option which is to go from Tallahassee to the Okefenokee Swamp and to Savannah after that. We did not do Jacksonville at all to have more time in Okefenokee.

See Okefenokee Swamp

Some Information about the Panhandle

Don’t underestimate these routes. One example: driving along the southern peak of the forgotten coast (on highway 98 from Panama City to St. Joseph and St. Marks till Tallahassee) you need 5 to 6 hours for only 300 kilometers. The fastest route (highway 213, 20, and interstate 10) takes only 2 ¼ hours (180 km). That makes quite a difference. For these costal roads, you need time, rushing along these routes is pointless. You need to pick a few places that are important to you and decide what you want to do and what you can omit.

Anyone who enjoys crusing, stopping every now and then, seeing various nature preserve areas, watching birds or walking along a beach, has found the right place on earth in the Panhandle. Camping option are available and stopping is always possible. You can easily spend two weeks at the coast just doing that.

If you have less time, you are not able to see everything. You need to use the interstate 10 occasionally, just to make miles and drive a bit faster. Otherwise you would be spending your entire day in the car and you only have time for very shorts stops.
I prefer to mix these two options. In this case, that means: spending time outside, see the countryside, beaches and islands, with no rush there but also moving forward. I recommend this tour:

• Start in New Orleans
• First night somewhere between Pensacola and Fort Walton Beach. Depending on time and interest – 1 or 2 nights. Definitely stop in Perdido Key State Park. You can also camp here (or any other location from the Gulf Island National Seashore). Nature lovers and whoever wants to have more time for the countryside should plan to stay an additional 1- 2 nights
• If you like shopping – plan some time for the Silver Sands Premium Outlet in Destin. Depending on what you prefer – you can easily spend an entire day here; Drive to Panama City Beach – on the route you need some time to stop at beaches and swim if you feel like it. Two nights in Panama City to see the city and spend some time on the beach
• Next stop is Port St. Joe. Book a hotel somewhere close to the state parks. Now you have time to visit St. Joseph and St. Vincent and St. George Island
• Next Stop is Tallahassee – if you have time you can visit Walkulla Spring State Park on the way.

Is this the Right Holiday Destination For Me?

If you enjoy nature, like to be somewhere off the main tourist routes and don’t mind driving a bit longer, this is the right place for you. You find nature, coast, beaches and tranquility. Action and Entertainment are somewhere else, Orlando and Miami. I do like nature; it definitely looks different from everything I know from home. Bigger towns are everywhere; there you can get anything you need. You can visit these towns, but it’s not really necessary. Hotels and motels are everywhere, you always have many options. But you definitely need your own car and have to drive 2 – 3 hours per day. Depending a lot, of course, how much time you have and what you want to see. If you don’t mind that, the Panhandle is the perfect place for you.

This is Part 2.

Part 1 of this article can be found here:

The Panhandle: The Part of Florida Most People Have Not Even Heard Of – Part 1: Panama City, Emerald Coast and Information About the Climate

Der Beitrag The Panhandle: The Area of Florida Most People Have Not Even Heard Of – Part 2: The Forgotten Coast, Tallahassee and Route Options erschien zuerst auf travelspotting.

What exactly is Outlet Shopping?

If you have never seen it in the US, you do most likely not know it from Germany. Huge outlet shopping malls are everywhere. They offer all kinds of products and items way cheaper than in the stores. These outlet malls are in every big city, usually a bit outside. They do not only sell one brand but severals in many different stores. A major asset is that the so called “average” brands are sold as well, not only high-end fashion brands and designers. If you read this blog you know that, when it comes to driving routes, I sometimes point out outlet malls on the road. We always made some great deals here and did quite some shopping, everyway much cheaper than in Germany in cheaper than in the regular stores.

Outlet Shopping in Orlando

I describe two very big outlet malls in this blog: Orlando and Las Vegas. Orlando has two malls: Orlando Premium Outlet Vineland Avenue and Orlando Premium Outlet International Drive.

We like these mall, they are a good opportunity to buy everyday clothes, clothes we still need at home on a daily basis (as opposed to e.g. cheesy tourist T-Shirts). Some things we always buy quite successfully are sporting clothes and running shoes (sometimes Adidas, sometimes Nike or Reebok). Also Jeans from some of the famous Jeans brands and T-Shirts were always cheap. Sometimes we also found more fancy clothes for work in an office or chic leather shoes.

Both Malls in Orlando are huge. It’s impossible to go to all the stores. You should focus on the brands and stores you like in particular. That’s what we always did: some American brands but sometimes even German brands like Adidas are cheaper. The discount policy varies in every store. Some stores are much cheaper than at home others not at all. All the stores with great discounts are full of people; basically just follow the crowd to find them.

Shopping in an Outlet Mall

A pair of Levi’s Jeans is usually 120 Euro here in Germany. Sometimes you get a discount a pay 80 to 100 €. In an outlet mall, we found them for 50 dollars. Nike running shoes are usually 100 € and more here, in the US outlet we paid 40 – 50 dollar. We also found a premium leather jacket for 55 dollars. You can see in all these examples how much money you can save.

One thing that is not so nice: these outlet malls are very busy. It’s not a relaxing way to shop. I almost had to fight for my Nike running shoes.

The good thing about these malls is: you find many American brands here. Some of them are not available in Germany like Gap, Banana Republic, Guess, Victoria’s Secret, Sean John (Puff Daddy’s fashion). There are also stores from the big fashion designers (Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Boss, Armani). Apart from that they usually have perfumeries and toy stores (Disney, Toys’r’us).

When Should I Go?

The basic rule is: the longer the day, the fuller the mall. In the evening, these malls are always crowded. From that point of view, going in the morning would be the right choice. But there are also some reasons to go in the evening: in winter, Florida is dark rather early; you can do something else in daylight (beach, ocean, hiking, etc.). Anything you need daylight for. You can easily do these malls after sunset. That’s what we did. The outlet malls are open a long time, in Orlando even till 11 pm.

I think it’s enough to do one outlet mall. The best option is to decide based on the brands and stores that are important to you. Their websites have lists of all the stores (link at the bottom). You don’t find all the brands in every outlet mall, for example Levi’s isn’t everywhere, whereas Gap can be found in literally every shopping mall. Both Orlando Malls are so huge, I think they have enough for everyone. If you are rather open when it comes to that, choose based on what’s closer to your hotel or your driving route.
One thing we could not find was an electronics store (something like Mediamarkt or Saturn in Germany).

To us, this was always a way to spend one or two evenings per holiday like this. You buy things that make sense, no tourist crap and you have done all your shopping this one time and have enough time for everything else Florida has to offer.

I list the two big shopping malls in Orlando. But there are many more.

See also Outlet Shopping in Las Vegas.

Der Beitrag Outlet Shopping in Orlando erschien zuerst auf travelspotting.

From New Orleans To Jacksonville

Southern Florida is famous for its main tourist attractions in Orlando and Miami as well as its beaches and coasts. The so-called Panhandle, Florida’s Northwest is much less known. It’s called panhandle because its shape on the map resembles a panhandle. To locate it roughly, you can pick New Orleans as the starting point and depending on what you like Jacksonville or Tampa as the end point of your route. Of course, New Orleans is not in Florida, on this route you reach Florida after a little less than 3 hours driving (320 km). The total distance from New Orleans to Jacksonville is 880 km (to Tampa 1050 km). This is too much for a short field trip; you need to spend a couple of days in this area.

More Information on New Orleans can be found here.

The Panhandle as a Winter Destination and Year-Round Holiday Destination?

Is the Panhandle a good Year-Round Holiday Destination? Can I spend my winter holiday there and take a sunbath at the beach? Unfortunately, the answer is no. To find perfect beach weather, you need to go further south in Florida. The Panhandle is warm but not warm enough to take a sunbath and swim in the ocean. I was there in November in off-season. The plus side is obvious: very few visitors, the hotels were cheap and the weather was perfect to do some sightseeing in the cities. For a beach holiday, it was not warm enough. I did some walking along the beaches; it’s even warm enough to sit at the beach on midday. But it was not enough for sunbathing and swimming. To me, this is “T-Shirt-weather”, just like a nice, sunny spring day in Germany.

The only difference is that it starts raining all of a sudden. The residents always say weather at the coastline can change within minutes. That’s definitely true, we could see that all the time. Also, it’s quite windy, of course it is, we are near the ocean. Many Kitesurfers are here, we could see them regularly. This area is particularily interesting for them, we saw many residents kite surfing.

Emerald Coast: Gulf Island National Seashore, Pensacola and Panama City

Why would I want to go to the Panhandle anyways? The westernmost point of Florida is Pensacola. You can already experience the character of the Panhandle here: everything is more quiet, laid-back and less touristic. There is lots of pristine nature, long-stretched beaches and calmness. Some areas are protected, but this usually only means that you need to pay a fee (10 to 15 dollar entrance per car) and are only allowed to move within the designated areas. These nature protection areas are extremely important to flora and fauna and need support.

One example is the Gulf Island National Seashore (close to Biloxi). It has a 15 dollar entrance fee. There are beaches, you can go hiking, watch birds, kayak and enjoy the nature. Parts of the park are reachable by car. One of its islands is Perdido Key.
Gulf Island National Seashore is a coastal area, 160 miles long. It’s partly in Mississippi and Florida and consists of 12 different units. A car with less than 15 people in it costs 15 dollars. There are three visitor centers.

More information on: https://www.nps.gov/guis/index.htm

I would have liked to spend more time in that recreational area. We could not do that, but I’d really like to come back some day. Just spending 2 days in that protected area, leave the car somewhere and do some walking all day long, spend time at the beach and simply relax and unwind.

Something quite remarkable is the transition from sea to fresh water in the swamps. You can see this very well in Perdido Key State Park. Many of the typical Florida alligator live in this protected area. More Information on Perdido Key can be found here.

The most important connecting street is interstate 10. But the interstate leaves the coastline quickly and is located a bit further upcountry. You should leave the I-10 as soon as possible and rather take the coast highways. There, you can enjoy the view and cruise very American-like along the coast. You can stop as you like and take a walk at the beach or simply have coffee or enjoy lunch.

The US-army has a base in Pensacola which makes the cities well-known nationwide.
The coastal area between Pensacola and Panama City is called Emerald Coast – named after the precious stone. This name describes the beauty of the area quite nicely. The ocean shimmers in many different colors, the beaches are huge and most of them are totally deserted, the nature protection areas are gorgeous.

Between Pensacola and Panama City (near Fort Walton) is a little town called Destin. For anyone who wants to go shopping, the outlet mall Silver Sands Premium Outlet in Destin is a huge shopping-lovers paradise. You cannot miss the mall. You only need to drive along coast street 98 (the main road). Signs are everywhere at the highway.

After Destin, you reach a little town called Seaside. Seaside is so picturesque; Hollywood used it as the hometown in “The Truman Show” with Jim Carrey. It’s only a little town, but very nice and a good place to stop on the route.

Grayton Beach State Park and St. Andrews State Park: Best Beach of America

Two beaches on the Panhandle need some special attention. Both of them were called the Best Beach in America in different years. Dr. Beach (a geology professor in Florida) picks a winner every year and has a Top 10 list.

Grayton Beach State Park, right between Destin and Panama City, only a few kilometers from Seaside, was number one in 1994 and regularly appears in the Top Ten, 2016 as number 6.

St. Andrews Beach State Park was topping the list in 1995 and is also a regular Top Ten Guest. St. Andrews is another 55 km further east, close to Panama City.

Both beaches are part of a protected area (both state parks). That means you need to pay to go there. The list of activities includes: hiking, nature watching, animal watching, fishing, cycling, camping and of course spending time at the beach, swimming and sunbathing.

This Article continues in Part 2:

The Panhandle: The Part of Florida Most People Have Not Even Heard Of – Part 2: The Forgotten Coast, Tallahassee and Route Options

Der Beitrag The Panhandle: The Area of Florida Most People Have Not Even Heard Of – Part 1: Panama City and Emerald Coast and Information about the Climate erschien zuerst auf travelspotting.

Miami and Miami South Beach

The most popular beach on the Atlantic Coast is Miami South Beach, Miami’s City Beach. In fact, South Beach is not part of Miami but belongs to a different town called Miami South Beach. You reach the beach from the famous Art Déco Quarter at the Ocean Drive. The beach has all these typical colorful beach shacks of the lifeguards.

The beach is wide and clean, but quite crowded. Even in off-season quite an amount of people were here, also many posterboys and postergirls from the Ocean Drive. All of them are looking incredibly good, very beautiful, as if they just escaped from a film set. In two days, I saw two photo shootings here. All in all, we spent an entertaining day here.
You can find more information on Miami South Beach in this separate article.

Cocoa Beach

Cocoa Beach is Kelly Slater’s home. They make that very clear, the name is everywhere. This beach has the biggest surfing shop in the world called Ron Jon. Even to us, total non-surfers, seeing the store was interesting. There is also a Surfers Hall of Fame. Cocoa Beach is 100% a surfers’ beach. The beach has a pier with a restaurant in the end of it.

Cocoa Beach is only a few kilometers south of Cape Canaveral. Cocoa and its close beaches (Viera, Melbourne and Titusville) are called the Space Coast.

The beaches closest to Cape Canaveral are Cocoa and Satellite. The Kennedy Space Center suggested these two beaches to see a rocket launch and not pay for the Kennedy Space Center. Both beaches are a bit closer to the mainland (kind of inside) than Cape Canaveral. I can image that you can really see quite well from here.

Daytona Beach

Daytona Beach is north of Cape Canaveral. The beach offers lots of entertainment for children and action, restaurants, a pier and lots of hustle and bustle. Daytona Beach is particularly interesting because of the close NASCAR race track that can be visited.

St. Augustine Beach

St. Augustine Beach is the only beach is clearly different from the others. It’s much less busy, maybe because it is located so far in the north. We were alone at the beach. There is no port promenade, no restaurants facing the ocean and no entertainment. We had food in town. The sand was a bit rougher, kind of gritty and torpedo sand-like. Not bad, not uncomfortable but just a bit different from the more southern beaches.

Similarities of all the Atlantic Coast Beaches

All the Atlantic Coast Beaches have some things in common. They beaches are wide, spacious and nonbuilt-up area. There are wooden piers on which you can walk a bit into the ocean. There are promenades full of restaurants, cafés and entertainment. It’s never really quiet here. The picturesque Ocean Drive as the background of Miami Beach is something that sticks out.

The water is always warm, you can always swim. But, as it is the Atlantic Coast, the water is a bit rough. There are waves and currents. Nothing bad, I would swim there anyways. But all the waves keep coming and get you quite well just standing in the water. You need to be aware of the fact that it’s a surfer’s hotspot and that means the ocean is a bit rough and full of waves.

One thing all these beaches have in common are their water streets everywhere, for example in Cocoa, Daytona and St. Augustine. In Cocoa and Fort Lauderdale, these water streets are everywhere. You can see how ocean becomes land, how saltwater becomes fresh water.

How To Reach These Beaches

All of these beaches can be reached easily by car. All of the mentioned beaches are on islands in front of the mainland. You almost don’t notice that, bridges and roads are everywhere. Sometimes, they charge a toll but you can drive anywhere. The coast road is called A1A and usually leads directly to all the beaches from Miami all the way up north. You can use the A1A as a reference point: this street covers all the small islands, whenever possible (except Cape Canaveral). On the mainland the highway that is closest to the coast is Highway Number 1. It is at the coastal end of the mainland and leads far north. You can see the ocean and all the islands from here.

The Atlantic Coast has close to no empty land: it is mainly covered with bigger cities and smaller towns (the closed area of Cape Canaveral is an exception). There are very few protected areas here, most Florida’s eco projects are somewhere else, for example in the Panhandle up north.

See also Part 2:

The Beaches of Southern Florida Part 2: Gulf Coast

Der Beitrag Beaches in Southern Florida Part 1: Atlantic Coast erschien zuerst auf travelspotting.

Miami Beach – Miami

Miami Beach is a group of islands, artificial and non-artifical, right in front of the city of Miami which is on the mainland. These island are connected to the mainland by several bridges, the main connecting streets are highway A1A and interstate 195.

Miami Beach is a medium-sized island, narrow but long-stretched. The most famous part of the island is in the South: South Beach and Ocean Drive.

South Beach

South Beach looks exactly the way you know it from the TV (Miami Vice, etc.). The city beach is relatively wide, has many visitors and the colorful shacks of the lifeguards are everywhere.

There is a park right next to the beach (Lummus Park). The park is not big, rather small but long-stretched. All in all, this creates a nice atmosphere: the beach on the ocean’s side, and the Ocean Drive on the other side. This is definitely a spot to take a walk. Something is always going on here. If you don’t like walking, you have plenty of other options including bicycles and segways.

Art Déco District

South Beach is also where the Art Déco District starts. It goes from 6th Street in the South to Dade Boulevard in the North (the eastern and western border are Ocean Drive and Alton Road, both not important). Except from the port, the Art Déco District stretches along the entire width of the island. The District has many different building, according to Wikipedia 960. The most well-know building is the former Gianni Versace house (now a hotel). Travel books describe walking routes in the quarter where you get to see all important buildings. You can also book a guided tour.

We did the route Lonely Planet recommends and that worked quite well. We had enough information about all the buildings. I think you don’t need to spend money on a guided tour, a self-guided tour works just fine.

Ocean Drive

Ocean Drive is basically a chain of restaurants, clubs, coffee shops and bars. Ocean Drive is full of beach guests every day but really only wakes up after sunset.

All of a sudden many dressed-up people are everywhere, looking incredibly good (both female and male). I would be a little careful with food drinks here some people have accidentally ordered a 20-dollar-plus drink here. In case you want to go out in the night, bring some fancy, up-to-do clothes. I would have felt a little out of place in my regular casual holiday clothes.

Parking at Ocean Drive

Parking here was a bit difficult. Parking is available at the side of the road, but at some point all these parking spaces are full and you need to circle the Art Déco District. Public Parking is available between the 6th and 7th Street for one dollar an hours. You can try and see if you find something here.

Much further north, at 16th street, pubic parking is also available.

Lincoln Avenue

Another interesting area is Lincoln Avenue between 16th and 17th street. This is the shopping mile of Miami Beach. There are many different stores (even Outlet sometimes) and restaurants. We did not go shopping; we only took a walk there.
Parking is again not easy, just like Miami Beach in general.

Collins Avenue

Ocean Drive starts on 6th and ends on 15th street. A parallel road to Ocean Drive is Collins Avenue (highway A1A). Collins Avenue is much longer and is connects the entire island from north to south.

There are many hotels along that road. The basic rule is: the further south, the cooler and more expensive. We were quite far up north in a hotel called Casablanca in the Ocean. It was fine. I cannot recommend it nor not recommend it. There was no food in the hotel. But Collins Avenue has many options, even that far north. You only need to leave the hotel and walk a few steps.

If you want to find a supermarket, better check up north than on South Beach. In the south, things are more expensive in general.

Eden Roc and Fontainebleu

The two hottest hotels in Miami Beach are Eden Roc and Fontainebleu. These are the most famous and chicest hotels in town. These two are an exception to the “the cooler the more south”-rule.

Parking at the Hotels

Parking at the Hotels was difficult. Our hotel had a very small entrance with Valet Parking. The car was taken to some underground garage, of course for extra money (25 dollars per day). We did not find any other parking and had to pay that.

How Long Should I Stay Here and What Should I Definitely Do?

I don’t think it’s the perfect area for an extended beach holiday. The Gulf Coast has beaches that are much more beautiful. To me, a single day at the beach in Miami Beach is enough (or even only a half day). You should definitely visit the Art Déco District and Ocean Drive. I think, one day and one evening is enough for this. I recommend spending 2 nights and days here, if you feel like it you also have enough time to shop at Lincoln Avenue. You can stay longer and spend some time in Miami. But for Miami Beach, this is enough time.

Der Beitrag Miami Beach: Ocean Drive, South Beach and Art Déco District erschien zuerst auf travelspotting.

Honeymoon Island located right before Clearwater

Honeymoon Island can be reached from the mainland on a bridge and is thus easily accessible by car. The island itself is a national park and a protected landscape. That means, like in every protected area, visitors need to pay an entrance fee (8 Dollar per vehicle). Honeymoon island, has a ferry to Caladesi Island (14 Dollar per Person). The ride on the ferry takes a short time, the sea is calm. Even for people with motion or sea sickness, this ferry is not a problem.

Caladesi Island and Clearwater Beach – Next to Dunedin, Clearwater

Caladesi Island refers to the northern part of an island. The southern part is Clearwater Beach and has a bridge to the mainland. The northern part is not accessible by car. You can either walk from Clearwater Beach or take the ferry from Honeymoon Island. It creates a feeling of well-being and a holiday atmosphere to take the ferry, in particular because everything looks nicer from the water. Caladesi Island, the northern part of the Island, like Honeymoon, is a national park that is protected. Many rare animals and plants can be found here, the island is a great eco-system for that. For example 250 kinds of birds. Several herons are standing in the water. We could also see sea lions and dolphins.

Caladesi Island: Best Beach in America and Lona Oak Point

Caladesi Island was voted best beach in 2008 (by Dr. Beach, real name is Mr. Leatherman, professor for Geology at the Florida University). Caladesi Island also appeared on the list the previous years, before winning in 2008.

From the ferry port, several wooden bridges connect the beach to the ferry. The ground seems a bit swampy and covered with reed. Flat beaches with dunes form a very sensitive eco-system. The bridges protect this system.

Right after the beach entrance (exit of the wooden bridge) there are several smaller groups, approximately 20 people when we were there. Everything is a bit American. All visitors carry coolers, chairs, sunbelts, air mattresses, beach toys, food and sometimes even music. Unfortunately, that is a common thing to do in the US. To Americans, a day at the beach seems to come with carrying lots of items with them. It always looks a bit like “moving out of Egypt”.

If that is too much for you (to me it always is), it’s not a problem to avoid that kind of thing. They don’t walk far with their entire luggage. In fact, they all sit within a distance of 100 meters to the entrance. In this case, we just walked a bit north (maybe 10 minutes) and had the beach to ourselves. We did not hear anything from the noise and could get away from it all. A beach blanket, sun screen and a bottle of water is all we need. We enjoy walking along the coast with these few items. On Caladesi, this was a beautiful walk: no one on the beach, totally calm and secluded. The northern end right behind Lona Oak Point – end of our walking tour – is the most famous spot for photographers. Pics of this spot can be found on several websites. From here, it’s only 200 meters to the Honeymoon Island beach. It’s called Hurricane pass and used for fishing and jetskiing. Yet, there is large water traffic. Swimming from Honeymoon to save the ferry money isn’t recommendable

The Gulf Coast: Sea Lions and Dolphins

The water is extremely comfortable: clear and warm. It’s flat and stays flat for a very long time, you can walk in the ocean for quite a while. Waves are soft, almost no waves at all. All in all a perfect spot to swim in the ocean. I am a little sensitive when it comes to cold oceans. I like only very warm sea water to swim; otherwise I prefer to stay on the beach. Florida’s Gulf Coast is perfect for that.

Small anecdotes tell how secluded the area is: sea gulls are everywhere and particularly curious. That was also the case here. They were walking around my backpack for a while. But they had no interest in my half-empty cookies bag, neither were they looking for crumbles. It seems they did not know at all what this is. They were simply not used to it at all, no one has ever fed them candies and they just didn’t care. (At the Atlantic coast it’s totally different: sea gulls waiting to steal my cookies.)

In distance, we saw two sea lions swimming by. They looked at the beach curiously but continued their route. How far they really were is hard to say. We could see them easily. Also, there was a dolphin jumping out the water somewhere in distance.

It’s been a beautiful, relaxing day at the beach for us. I would always recommend a trip to Caladesi or Honeymoon Island. The beach cannot be called insider’s tip any more since topping the beach ranking but it’s definitely worth a visit.

For Hikers, Caladesi offers many opportunities. They also offer kayak rentaks and snorkeling. There are several kilometers of hiking routes on Caladesi. It’s also possible to go there in your own boat; anyways I cannot say anything about that.

Caladesi Island is located in the ocean right in front of Clearwater Beach. It is accessible by ferry (from Honeymoon Island) or by a walking tour (from Clearwater Beach). It’s a national park that requires an entrance fee (Honeymoon Island 8 Dollars). The ferry is 10 Dollars and leaves every hour from 10 am. The official website recommends arriving by ferry. Caladesi Island State Park is open daily from 8 am till sunset.

Der Beitrag Honeymoon and Caladesi Island: Two Islands like Paradise erschien zuerst auf travelspotting.