3 public entrances

The swamp expands to 180.000 hectares and is mostly protected. There are 3 entrances to the swamp – all three are located in Georgia: by Folkston in the East, in the South by Fargo and in the North by Waycross.

In the Stephen C. Foster State Park which is located south you can rent canoes, kayaks and motor boats, go fishing, enjoy a guided tour or go hiking. The Fargo Folkston entrances are used mainly by adventurers for canoe tours – there are several spots in the swamp to spend the night at.

Boat tour at Okefenokee Swamp Park

We visited Waycross, Georgia in November where the Okefenokee Swamp Park is located. Right at the entrance we had an encounter with a huge alligator which obviously enjoys to rest on a small island within a narrow channel left of the visitor parking lot. The visitor center provides information about the tours.

One of these tours is a boat tour with a small motor boat using the swamp’s water roads. We were lucky: due to a hurricane the previous  day, visitor load was very low, the park was basically empty. The tour guides has information about flora and fauna and tells stories about the park while we were travelling cozily in the channels of the park. Alligators are everywhere, quite likely right next to us. We saw some young alligators which were nurtured at the sides of the channels. We did not spot fully grown alligator during the tour.

The water tour stops once – at an observation tower reachable by a walk on a bridge. The tower is approximately 30 meters high and provides a stunning view over the vastness of the swamp and the high tree tops where many different bird species live. After 45 minutes the tour ends.

Train tour and animal encounters

As a second tour option is a ride on the small train with a little steam engine. The tour goes 1,5 miles through the park. The train drives very slowly – almost walking speed. It stops on a little island where an exhibition about the early settlements of the swamp is shown. It is a nice tour, although the first one is a little more spectacular. Maybe you should first do the train first tour and the boat tour after that.

Back at our starting point, the visitor center, we watched a 30 minute presentation in which animals of the swamp where shown. At least it is NOT some kind of circus thing – the animals (snakes, baby alligators e.g.) are just shown for a moment while some interesting facts about the species and life of these animals are given. Afterwards they go back into some boxes. We sa some baby alligators, very little ones that are only a few months old and slightly older ones that are still tiny. I asked where they come from an the answer was: 2 animals per year can be held in captivity for educational purposes.

Having this presentation at all and presenting these animals at all is debatable and maybe questionable. Of course it is interesting to learn about the animals of the swamp. But do you really need to see a living animal for demonstration purposes? The animals were looking fine, they did not seem to suffer (as far as I can judge). To me, this presentation is not a reason to boycott the park because they treated their animals respectfully. 2 alligators per year are arguable – there are also living alligators in zoos for example. The animals were not severely bothered during the presentation, so I can accept this (in other parks I have a different opinion).

During the train tour we could see some Christmas decoration. The typical Santa Claus Figures, reindeer, sleighs etc. where positioned near the tour. In the South it’s obviously only Christmas when some fancy decoration is arranged – just like the snow fits to Christmas in Germany. I personally don’t need to see that but it didn’t really bother me.

See also article on Atlanta

Atmosphere of the swamp

Remarkable in the swamp is the very dark prevailing mood. Despite of bright daylight everywhere else the water is almost black and you always expect some alligator beneath every water lily. The black color of the water comes from the many dead plants and derives from the fact that it is marsh land (“Blackwater River”). According to the tour guide a lot of water was evaporated during the summer – consequently, the level was too low. Because of that the water appeared even darker. The atmosphere of the Okefenokee Swamp is very unique, difficult to describe and capture in words. It is dark and mysterious – like from a louring fairy tale.

Organisation Tips

Due to the size of the swamp it is necessary to pick one entrance. It is not possible to drive to more than one entrance in a day. Within the swamp there are no roads, only waterstreets. A car doesn’t help here. By car, the only option is to travel the long distance around the swamp. In the swamp, only boat traveling is possible. Okefenokee is not really easily accessible. We traveled from Tallahassee but it takes around three hours till Waycross (150 Miles). In the South, distances are always long and that is something that has to be considered – we started to travel early that day so we reached early enough to spend enough time in the Okefenokee Swamp Park.

From Jacksonville, the swamp area is easier to reach by the North entrance in Folkston. But here it is best to rent a canoe and go paddling. That would be surely a great adventure but for us not the right thing for the first visit. I wouldn’t want to paddle and suddenly an alligator is swimming right next to me. Moreover the swamp is a huge maze consisting of water streets, moor, swamp, land and lagoons. I would have quite some problems to know where I am and I would defintely need a tour guide. But anyway, it would certainly be a great adventure to once do a canoe tour with someone who knows the area!

Der Beitrag Okefenokee Swamp at the Border of Georgia/Florida: A Blackwater River Swamp erschien zuerst auf travelspotting.

Driving in the South Part 2: A Tour From Memphis to Vicksburg, New Orleans and Pensacola which can be found here.

From Pensacola to Jacksonville: North Florida – The Panhandle

The route from Pensacola to Jacksonville is described in this article.

Tallahassee to Charleston

The route from Tallahassee to Savannah is 491 km (I 20 and I 95). If you are interested in nature and protected areas, Okefenokee Swamp in worth a visit. (Information on Okefenokee Swamp here). If you take the route we took, you leave I-10 in Madison and drive along highway 84. This route is 60 km shorter, but takes 30 minutes longer. In this case, you avoid Jacksonville and cannot see anything of Florida’s largest city. Heading further to Georgia, you pass the Golden Isles of Georgia (more information can be found here) – Georgia’s islands. Every island requires a long detour. There is so much to be seen on this route, it’s not possible to see all of it without staying an additional night somewhere.

We wanted to visit the Okefenokee Swamp. The next time, I would go from Tallahassee to the Okefenokee Swamp (maybe via Fargo) and stay in Jacksonville for a night. Like this, I could spend the evening in Jacksonville and and focus the following days on the Georgia Isles. The route from Tallahassee to Savannah is easily doable in a day, but there is so much to see on the route.

From Savannah to Charleston, it’s only 175 km (2 hours). This part of the route gives you time to stop at all the islands (see Islands of South Carolina ###LINK###). A islands require again a long detour. We drove from Hilton Head to the little village Beaufort, a picturesque village than can be seen in Forrest Gump as Forrest’s fictional home Greenbow, Alabama.

It’s only 45 minutes from Hilton Head to Beaufort. From Beaufort you can driveto the ocean and reach the nature protected area Hunting Island. Like this, the route takes 1 ½ hours (90 km). From there, we drove directly to Charleston on highways 21 and 17. Instead of 1 ½ hours, you need 3 ½ hours to reach Savannah (270km). This shows, that driving to the islands takes time (in our case, an extra 100 km, 1 ½ hours). I think one island per day is enough; more is too much of a rush. Better head to Charleston on the afternoon.

Whatever island you want to visit on this route, plan a whole day to do so. You find more information about these islands in their own articles.

Charleston is super-interesting; it is also possible to go to Charleston directly to have more time there.

Parts 1 and 2 of this tour can be found here:

Driving in the South Part 1: A Tour From Atlanta to the Great Smoky Mountains, Nashville and Memphis

Driving in the South Part 2: A Tour From Memphis to Vicksburg, New Orleans and Pensacola

A tour in the Panhandle/Northern Florida can be found here.

Der Beitrag Driving in the South Part 3: From Florida’s Capital Tallahassee on the Georgia Coast to the Carolinas and Charleston erschien zuerst auf travelspotting.

Avoiding Driving the Same Route Twice – The Southern States as an Expansive Area: Highway or Interstate

We were having difficulties to find proper information about the South of the US right before we went there. The area seems to be of little interest to German travel agencies, they are focused on California and Florida. The southern part of Florida is rather small, issues like that don’t exist to the same extend. In particular in the southern states of the East, choosing the right route is important. This determines how fast or slow you move forward and as a consequence what you get to see. Taking short field trips to certain sights usually does not make much sense and will only cost you money and energy. The rule is: avoid driving the same route twice whenever possible.

Atlanta, The Great Smoky Mountains, Nashville and Memphis: From Georgia to North Carolina and Tennessee

Atlanta is the perfect starting point for a tour. Anyone coming from far away will most likely arrive at Atlanta Airport, the largest airport in the United States with many connections to any destination worldwide. (see Flying via Atlanta)

Georgia’s capital is located conveniently in the center of the South. A tour from here may start in any direction. South of Atlanta at the Atlantic Coast, Florida’s capital Jacksonville can be reached easily. In the North (heading to South Carolina) Savannah and Charleston are within reach. On the direct road, the interstate, all these cities are within a five hour distance to Atlanta. We drove from Charleston to Atlanta (I-20, I-95), it took exactly 5 hours. Depending on where you want to go next, you can choose between these options. On the way to Charleston, there is the little town of Augusta for a stop, on the way to Savannah it’s Macon. Charleston is the right choice if you want to move further north (North Carolina), Jacksonville if you want to move further south to Florida.
We chose a different route. Our second stop after Atlanta was Nashville; on the way to Nashville we stopped to visit the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. (see Great Smoky Mountains)

Our route lead us to the eastern entrance of the park, the village right next to the entrance in called Cherokee, hotels are available here. It’s a 260 km drive (3 hours) (I 85, Hgw 23, Hgw 441). There is one interesting stop on this route: the North Georgia Premium Outlets, and outlet mall 75 km north of Atlanta. Anyways, the outlet center is a bit further northwest and not reachable directly from the Interstate. Instead of the interstate 85, you better take highway 19. This little detour requires an extra 20 minutes even though it’s only an additional 15 km. If you are interested in outlet shopping, you should definitely do that. You don’t need to go a long way round it’s just a minor detour. Outlet centers are usually located outside larger cities; in this case it’s conveniently located on the way.

Asheville is located west of the Great Smoky Mountains. The largest privately owned southern plantation can be visited here. If you have some time left, go there. We didn’t and I regret it. I cannot say more about it, anything else can be found in the article on the Great Smoky Mountains.

Next stop after the Great Smoky Mountains is Nashville. There are two very different tour options here: the northern route is the shortest way (via I 40, 410 km, 4 ½ hours) and the southern route via Chattanooga (Hgw 74, I-24, 450 km, 5 hours). If you want to see the little town Chattanooga, the southern route is the right one. Whiskey fans will find the southern route more interesting. Lynchburg, Tennessee is the home of Jack Daniels and its distillery can be visited. The closest interstate to Lynchburg is I-50, anyways it’s a 50 km drive from the interstate. For the southern road, you need an entire day in order to have time for Chattanooga and the Jack Daniels distillery. We left the Great Smoky Mountains on midday and decided to take the direct route without stop. On the northern route, right before Nashville, there is a little town called Lebanon and a smaller outlet mall. If you have some time left in the evening, you can go here. That’s what we did. Traffic wasn’t heavy and we had some time to kill. So we stopped here for a short break. The Lebanon outlet itself is rather small; I would not drive here only for the outlet.

Die fastest route from Nashville to Memphis is I-40 which connects both cities (3 hours, 340 km). At the western side of Nashville, there is the Belle Meade Plantation (reachable via highway 70s). Going to Belle Meade first and to the interstate after that will only take you a few minutes longer. A stop in Belle Meade is always something interesting, it’s only a minor detour and you lose about 10 minutes. For the rest of the route, I recommend the interstate. I don’t have any more suggestions for stops on the route. We only did Belle Meade Plantation and Memphis.

More Information on this Tour can be Found in Part 2 and Part 3:

Driving in the South Part 2: A Tour From Memphis to Vicksburg, New Orleans and Pensacola

Driving in the South Part 3: From Florida’s Capital Tallahassee on the Georgia Coast to the Carolinas and Charleston

A Tour in the Panhandle/Northern Florida can be found here.

Der Beitrag Driving in the South Part 1: A Tour From Atlanta to the Great Smoky Mountains, Nashville and Memphis erschien zuerst auf travelspotting.

Right after Savannah, the state of Georgia ends. One of the most famous South Carolina Island’s is Hilton Head Island. Hilton Head is about an hour from Tybee Island. It’s a rather touristic place. Tourism on the island prospers. There are many resort hotels, the compulsory golf course, beaches and many activities – basically anything you can think of. Also bars, clubs, nightlife, sport events, many offers for tourists. Right before Hilton Head Island, there is a nature protection area: Pinckney National Wildlife Refuge. You can go hiking, walk on the beach, do all kinds of ocean-related activities (kayaking, dolphin watching, fishing, jet ski, sailing, etc.). There are two big shopping malls. But it’s rather one shopping mall split into two parts. There are also many old buildings, plantations etc. Apart from that, Hilton Head has a very busy art life including theater, ballet, sculpturing, and painting. All in all it is probably the most diverse and biggest of all the islands.

Insiders’ Tip at the South Carolina Coast: Hunting Island and Kiawah Island

North of Hilton Head Island are some more islands like Prichards Island, Hunting Island and Folly Island. I only want to mention Hunting Island and Kiawah Island. Hunting Island is a nature protection area, reachable from the mainland on highway 21 (via I-95) and is located right between Savannah and Charleston. It’s not a national park but a South Carolina State Park. Many locals like to visit here. The island has camping and lodges but no big hotels. Again, you get to see mainly flora and fauna. For film lovers: the Forest Gump Vietnam Scenes were shot here.

http://southcarolinaparks.com/huntingtonbeach/introduction.aspx

Kiawah Island State Park is another interesting place. If you know this blog, you know that I like to point out beaches that won awards from Dr. Beach. Usually, that means these beaches are in their natural state, calm and have very few touristic equipment and buildings around. Also no huge hotels close to the beach. All of this is the case in Kiawah Island. It’s a one-hour-drive from Charleston (south on highway 700). It’s better to reach than Hunting Island. Both islands are calm and secluded without any big hotels.

About the South Carolina Islands

I have not seen all of the South Carolina Islands. The very popular Myrtle Beach is one of the things I don’t know so far. I anyways want to tell you how I see things. My travel agency only offers hotels on Hilton Head Island. They did not have anything for all the other islands and could not say anything about these places. As mentioned above, Hilton Head Island is very successful. Anything you need – you will get it here. The beaches are beautiful; there is a big variety of hotels, restaurants and activities. Nevertheless, I cannot fully recommend Hilton Head Island. To me, everything seemed a bit too fancy, a bit too crowded a bit too touristic. Just one example: I found an ad somewhere that you can explore a swamp area on stilts, without getting your feet wet (???). How does that work? I don’t know. Having a show like this is not my kind of thing. If I want to explore nature, I get dirty. I don’t need a soft version of that.

The United States are far away from Germany. It’s not cheap to even reach there. I want to see nature that I don’t have at home, experience things that are “typical USA”. Hilton Head Island is a perfect spot for a family holiday, an entire summer holiday or something like that. But I can have that kind of holiday at many places in Europe, for much less money, short flights and all in all less effort to reach. Hilton Head is not a winter destination. To me, this island does not have anything that I cannot get easier anywhere else. I don’t need to travel to the US for something like that. I prefer the other island with their nature protection programs. I really liked these.

This article is Part 2.

Part 1 can be found here:

Little Known Islands in Georgia and South Carolina Part 1: The Golden Isles of Georgia

Der Beitrag Little Known Islands in Georgia and South Carolina Part 2: Hilton Head Island, Hunting Island and Kiawah Island erschien zuerst auf travelspotting.

From Jacksonville to Savannah to Charleston: Islands along the East coast

This routes start at the northeastern end of Florida: Jacksonville and leads along the coast to Charleston. I describe all the islands in this order: from South to North. You drive through two different states on this route: Georgia and South Carolina. This is how I group the island. Georgia markets its islands with a nice slogan: “the Golden Isles of Georgia”. The South Carolina description includes anything till Charleston and excludes anything north of Charleston. Famous beaches like Wilmington and Myrtle Beach are not on the list.

The Golden Isles of Georgia: Jekyll Island and Cumberland Island

Cumberland Island – a protected area than can only be reached on a boat – is at the very South of Georgia. It’s the largest of the so-called “Golden Isles” and has restrictions concerning visitors. Part of the national park Cumberland Island National Seashore is open to public, entrance is 7 dollars.

https://www.nps.gov/cuis/index.htm

North of Cumberland Island is a smaller island called Jekyll Island. It’s not far to both islands in the north and south but Jekyll Island anyways has its own road to the main land (I 95 and hgw 17). Jekyll Island is quite exactly in the middle between Jacksonville and Savannah (120 km to Jacksonville, 150 km to Savannah). Jekyll Island also has many nature protection programs: the beach is a state park and totally left in its natural state. In the 19th and 20th century, many wealthy American had their holiday homes here. You can still visit their grand homes. Georgia State has owned the island since mid 20th century in order to maintain its status quo. Also guided tours are available. The Georgia Sea Turtle Center – an animal rescue and protection program – needs to be mentioned in particular. It’s a state program to protect and help wounded turtles. Some more mammals, reptiles and birds are living on the island. If you are lucky, you get to see some of them. There are also some middle class hotels, camping areas and many kilometers of pure beach.

The Golden Isles of Georgia: St. Simons Island, Little St. Simons Island, Sea Island

Further north, a group of three islands can be found. The main island and starting point to the two others is St. Simons Island – a larger island with gulf, tennis, and en entire touristic infrastructure (shopping, restaurants, nightlife, etc.). St. Simons has a bridge to the main land and is easy to reach. Much more laid back is Little St. Simons Island, only reachable by boat from St. Simons Island. It’s a privately owned island and its first priority is to protect the nature. It has only offers a restricted the number of overnight stays. Many rare animals live on this island, for example water turtles come here to breed. The island is very famous for its diversity of birds. Here you find a piece of pure nature on an island that has won several awards for its protection programs.

The second island than can be reached from the main island St. Simons is Sea Island. This time a boat is not necessary, both islands are connected by a bridge. Sea Island has many upscale resort hotels and weekend houses and is only open to guest with hotel bookings or house owners. The island has many golf clubs and is in general a fancy, sophisticated island for the up-market. George Bush hosted a G8 meeting here in 2004.

Savannah’s City Beach: Tybee Island

Tybee Island is Savannah’s city beach. It’s only 30 minutes from Savannah to Tybee. City Beach sounds a bit negative and does not describe this island properly. It’s a small, nice island with many restaurants, small roads and loads of beach. Its atmosphere is cozy and laid-back; it’s not too fancy (like Sea Island) and not too far away. Only the northern part of the island has streets. There are many beach cottages for rent but also motels and very few luxury places. All in all a colorful mix and definitely worth a trip. Wormsloe Plantation is very close (see Plantations of the American South). Doing both makes a good combination.

http://visittybee.com/

Which Georgia Island is the Right One for Me?

All Georgia Island have a very different character. All islands without a road to the main land (Cumberland Island and Little St. Simons Island) are very deserted and usually protected. You get to see beautiful nature, rare animals and plants and all kinds of protection programs. You need some advance planning to stay here and you need to bring enough time. Both islands have limited access. Find out if you need to be an overnight guest to be allowed to enter the island at all.

Tybee Island, Jekyll Island and St. Simons Island are easy to reach. I would not recommend Sea Island, I found it a bit too fancy, too exclusive and too sophisticated. I have great sympathies for Tybee Island. German travel agencies did not offer any hotels on Tybee Island at all. Same for St. Simons Island and Jekyll Island. I really don’t understand why. All these islands are attractive holiday destinations, and Americans like to spend their summer holidays there. Here in Germany these places are totally unknown. I can strongly recommend going there if you are interested in these kinds of places. It’s very beautiful; all these islands deserve a visit. Most likely, you need to book online my travel agency could not find anything except Hilton Head Island.

Geographically you are moving farther north (see Northern Florida). A winter is much warmer than anything here in Germany but not warm enough for a beach holiday. Moreover, winter days are short. These islands are not an all-year-round summer destination. December, January and February are definitely too cold for a beach holiday. From Mai till September, it’s warm. The “between months” March, April, October and November are convenient but not warm enough to swim. We were there in November, it was T-shirt weather. Basically our spring. The beaches were wonderful but we could not swim or sunbathe. You always need to consider that it’s dark at five. That means, visiting in off-season only is the right thing for enthusiasts.

This article continues in:

Little Known Islands in Georgia and South Carolina Part 2: Hilton Head Island, Hunting Island and Kiawah Island

Der Beitrag Little Known Islands in Georgia and South Carolina Part 1: The Golden Isles of Georgia erschien zuerst auf travelspotting.

Boone Hall Plantation, Mount Pleasant, Charleston, South Carolina

The Boone Hall Plantation is a little outside Charleston (18 km) and is one of the largest plantations on the list. The plantation appeared prominently on the TV show “North against South”. Of all the plantations we saw, this one had the largest crowd of visitors.
Many signs point to the plantation, from Charleston, Boone Hall is easy to find. The cashier is right in front of the Oak Alley. After buying a ticket, visitors proceed right through the Oak Alley in their cars. The street is an unpaved dirt road (a paved road would destroy the atmosphere) but the road is even, stable and dry. Driving on it works well, even larger vehicles like RVs could drive there without any problems. Traffic was heavy on the Oak Alley, the parking lot follows right after the Oak Alley.

Main attraction is the mansion with its regular tours. There are many chairs in front of the mansion, also canopies that offer shade if you need to wait and the sun is too strong. The plantation dates back till 1681; anyways the mansion is a replica from the 1930s. Originally, Boone Hall was a cotton plantation. Nowadays, farming focuses on strawberries and tomatoes.

The mansion tour mostly has stories about the original farm owners (in this case a Boone family), when the plantation was sold, what these new owners did about the plantation and how the plantation finally became accessible to public. Because of the many visitors, the tour is a bit of a run through all the rooms, tour guides figuratively push their groups to the next room. Once you leave a room, the next group walks right in. You get to see many different rooms of the plantation. Photography inside the mansion is not allowed. That is why I cannot show you any pics. Just in case you want to know how it looks inside the mansion: exactly like in “North against South”. It feels like being on the movie set.

In front of the mansion, there are several smaller red-brick buildings, where some of the slaves lived. It was an exception to build these cabins in front of the mansion; usually they were hidden behind the mansion. There is also a tour through these cabins; anyways it’s much less visited than the mansion tour. I would definitely recommend to do the slave cabin tour. The slaves’ history needs to be told and heard, it’s definitely as interesting as the mansion itself. A common problem here is that there is no written record about their history. Reconstructing their history and life story was only possible for a few single people, for example, the story of a female cook who spent her entire life at Boone Hall.

The third part of the plantation is its huge garden that can be seen on a walking tour. It has the typical face of a southern garden: many old trees, Spanish Moss everywhere and swamp areas nearby. You should definitely take that walking tour in order to feel the atmosphere of the plantation properly.

On plantations website it says they also have a bus tour through the entire land of the plantation, almost 300 hectares of land. When we were there, the busses were not. That is why we could not do that tour but we did everything else. The café was closed as well.

Oak Alley Plantation, Vacherie, Louisiana

The Oak Alley Plantation is in a little town called Vacherie, 60 km from New Orleans. (see New Orleans). The Plantation dates back to the early 19th century, its famous Oak Alley is considerably older. Its oaks are from the early 18th century and were probably the reason why the plantation itself was built at exactly that spot. In its early years, the plantation was a sugar cane farm. Two female residents have mainly influenced the plantation and its appearance. Celina, wife of the first owner Jacques Roman was actually the reason why he built the farm in the first place: he needed to make a nice home for his New-Orleans-born fiancée. Jacques died at a young age and Celina took over: she managed the plantation the following years. In the next generations, the family fell into financial problems and had to sell the plantation. The plantation started to decay. In 1925, Andrew Steward bought the house for his wife Josephine. She was the one who put the plantation back in good shape. Josephine had the house fixed and modernized and brought the farm back to its original purpose: making sugar cane. She stayed until her death and gave the farm to a foundation. Thanks to that, the farm is now open to public.

A guided tour in the mansion is very different from the one in Boone Hall. Photography is allowed, as long as no flash is used. All tour guides wear original, traditional clothing and show both floors to their visitors. We did get a lot of information what was done to fight the heat in the building. Small architectural secrets are supposed to help create a bit of ventilation in the rooms.

Big highlight of the tour is the huge balcony on the second floor: the balcony is located right at the center of the Oak Alley and offers a spectacular view. In this plantation, the Oak Alley is behind the mansion, not in front of it. Looking from that balcony to the oak alley is absolutely stunning; it’s worth visiting the plantation only for this. But even her, the tour guides are in a rush and the group has to hurry. We barely had enough time to take pics from the balcony. You can only walk along the oak alley, driving is not possible, there is no street and no other way to reach the alley, only a walking path. The alley is a ¾ mile long (1.2 km). Walking until its very end is worth it, even though very few visitors do that. This is a very nice spot to take pictures; you should definitely take time to do that. The plantation ends at the very end of that alley, a public street is right behind. You can go there to see the oak alley and take pics without having to buy an day pass for the plantation. Anyways, you only see the alley. From this spot the mansion is far in the background and barely visible.

In the opposite direction (from the mansion) there is a restaurant. Right next to it an exhibit and rebuild of the slaves’ homes tells their story. Again, it’s difficult to trace their stories back, only a few written records are available. A gardener who developed a new way to plant pecan nuts is mentioned in particular. At the end of the so called slave-alley are several overnight cottages. Cottages sounds like a simple, basic place to stay. Anyway, these cottages are the complete opposite. If you have always wanted to spend the night at a Southern plantation, this is an opportunity to do so.

A couple of smaller attractions can be found on the plantation as well: a theater that tells the story of planting sugar cane, an exhibit about how blacksmith work was done in the past and a smaller garden that Josephine, the last owner, started.

The Oak Alley Plantation appeared in several movies, the most important one is “Interview with a Vampire”. Also Beyoncé’s video “Déjà Vu” was shot here.

Vacherie has more plantations right next to Oak Alley: Laura Plantation, St. Joseph Plantation and San Francisco Plantation.

Belle Meade Plantation, Nashville, Tennessee

The Belle Meade Plantation is 10 km outside of Nashville. The farm was built by the Harding family in the early 19th century. From the beginning, the plantation operated on several levels: blacksmith work, lumber mill but also cattle breeding and making gin. Over the years, horse breeding became more and more important. Even after the civil war, the family tried to keep the farm running, but after a while this was no longer profitable. The plantation had two owner families: a Harding family and a Jackson family. There is quite some information available about the slaves of the plantation. Some of them had gone through a kind of apprenticeship and were professionals in their jobs: as blacksmith, as a jockey or in horse breeding. They were highly qualified and could even continue to work in these jobs after the Civil War. This is not supposed to euphemize slavery, it’s only a story that shows how different these plantation were and how they did business in different fields of work.

This plantation does not have an oak alley. Its mansion and the guided tour is the main attraction. A cottage, a replica of a slave home was reconstructed. There are some more, smaller buildings: a horse stable, a stable of carriages, a garden and a vinery. The tour includes a free wine tasting at the end. We had lunch at the plantation’s restaurant, the food was surprisingly good, prices were reasonable.

There was a little play at the lawn in front of the mansion: some guys, dressed as soldiers were busy working on old cannons. In the end, they indeed fired a cannonball. Our tour had already started; we were inside the mansion and only heard the detonation.

The plantation also sells several special culinary tours.

Compared to the two larger plantations Boone Hall and Oak Alley, Belle Meade is a bit smaller but in no ways boring. This plantation has an entirely different story and history than the other two.

Wormsloe Plantation, Savannah, Georgia

The Wormsloe Plantation is a 20 minutes-drive outside Savannah. The plantation is basically no longer a plantation. All the buildings are destroyed, only their ruins are left. The Wormsloe Plantation is very old, from the early 18h century. The building from these days does not exist anymore. A newer building from the 19th century is privately owned and cannot be visited.

But there is a beautiful old oak alley and several smaller walking paths in the forest and along a swamp. Basically, you take a nice walk in the area. At the entrance, there is an exhibit about the history of the plantation and its owner families.

Some ruins and traces from the early settlement of the US are still there. Over the years and centuries, several forms of agriculture were done here (fruits, vegetables, grain, etc.). It is remarkable that the Wormsloe Plantation has been owned by the same family since the 1730s. The area is a bit older and wilder than all the other plantations, mainly for two reasons. The old buildings are no longer there, only its ruins, and the plantation is in the middle of a forest and a swamp that borders the forest. The panorama her is nice and offers a nice view.

The plantation charges only 10 Dollars, less the half of what the others charge. Anyways, you need to be aware of the fact that you only see gardens, a forest, ruins and the oak alley. On the plus side: the plantation is not as crowded as the other ones.

Melrose Site, Natchez, Mississippi

Of all the plantations, this is the least known. It is in Natchez, Mississippi, at little town 120 km south of Vicksburg. You can go to Natchez on the way from Memphis to New Orleans or from Vicksburg to Baton Rouge. Natchez is anyways worth a stop. You can also do this little unknown plantation with its very few visitors.

The Melrose Plantation is smaller than the other ones on this list. You reach it by driving through a park. Originally, the plantation was built a little bit outside of Natchez, but now it is in the middle of the suburbs. Several signs lead to the plantation; it’s easy to find the park (reachable via highway 61 and Melrose Avenue). The plantation is from the mid 19th century.

The original owner family McMurran sold the farm as an entire unit: including furniture and dishes. Even during subsequent sales, the plantation’s interior remained the same. Because Natchez was not hit hard by the destruction of the Civil War, many original items survived and can still be seen today.

The plantation consists of a mansion and several smaller houses in the garden. The guided tour shows the entire house, also the second floor and the view from the balcony. The tour was not crowded at all, we were the only ones. The tour guide was called only for us. This was our first private tour, the only farm where we were not pushed from one room to the other in a larger group. Stables, carriages and all the small buildings are not part of the tour but can only be seen in a self-guided tour.

The garden is quite nice too and can be seen in a walking tour. The typical southern Spanish moss is everywhere; we also saw several air roots or trees that grow close to the water.

Important: Do Not Only Visit the Mansion

All plantations usually offer tours in the slave homes or replica of the slave houses. The history of their slaves is told as thoroughly as possible. Boone Hall had tours in the mansion every 15 minutes; about 20 – 30 people were guided through the house. Only about 10 people did the slave alley tour, even though the tour takes place much less frequently. That is such a pity! You should definitely listen to that part as well. Also do the walking tour in all the gardens and oak alleys, these are important parts of the plantation and define their image. You get to see many plants that do not exist in Germany. In Oak Alley Plantation, the oak alley is more than one km long. You should really walk until its very end, the view worth it.

Which plantation is the best, which should I visit?

All plantations are interesting and have their own history. The two larger plantations Oak Alley and Boone Hall are absolutely stunning, spectacular and a real highlight. Many people have found that out, both plantations have many visitors, in the main season they are probably too crowded. All tour guides are nice and provide loads of information. They talk about history and the plantations and their owner families. That is very interesting. But, you feel a bit pushed, sometimes it feels like they are trying to get rid of the group as soon as possible because the next one is already waiting. For example, tour guides leave their story unfinished because the next group is already close and it is time to leave the room. It is a rigid system that guides you from one room to the next one. One more negative thing: these plantations are expensive. They charge more than 20 bucks usually. But that is an individual decision if you want to pay these 20 plus dollars or not. In Vacherie we decided to not do the other two plantations because of that. I think it’s best to compromise here. You cannot see all plantation but a few are worth paying all that money.

All oak alleys are a highlight, in particular Oak Alley Plantation because you get to see the oak alley from the second floor. The oak alley in Wormsloe is beautiful as well, even though a mansion is missing. I think, if you have seen the Oak Alley Plantation (or another plantation with an oak alley) you can omit Wormsloe. Except you are very interested to see leftovers of the very early settlement, than you should do Wormsloe.
Some plantations do not show all their rooms or don’t let the tour groups go to the first floor. They have various reasons: sometimes it is because of safety issues, sometimes because the owner family still uses the plantation as a holiday home. That’s a pity, but nothing to do about that.

Photography rules are different everywhere: Boone Hall does not allow any photography inside the house, Oak Alley allows photography but without flash.

The two smaller plantations Wormsloe and Melrose place have a huge plus: very few people are there and you have more silence and less chaos and hectic there. The larger plantations are more impressive, but I would still recommend doing at least one smaller one. Plus, these small plantations cost much less.

Whoever plans to stay overnight in a plantation, you can do that in Belle Meade or Oak Alley.

It is difficult to recommend something in general. I suggest doing at least more than one plantation. An oak alley should be part of one of the plantations. The best thing is to plan accordingly to the rest of your tour. If I ever come back to New Orleans, I want to see some of the other plantations in Vacherie.

Der Beitrag Southern Beauties: Plantations in the American South and Their History erschien zuerst auf travelspotting.

Football in the US

Most football games are on a Sunday. Some are on weekdays in the evening. We went to a Sunday match, 1 pm in the old Atlanta Georgia Dome: Atlanta Falcons vs. Indianapolis Colts.

It was a bit of work to include that in our tour. As you can see in all the other articles, we visited several other cities and places. Several factors play a role; the teams usually have 2 matches a month at home. That is why you don’t have that many options in general. We could have made a visit in Memphis or New Orleans. To us, it was about seeing a football match at all, not a particular team. Tickets in New Orleans were sold out that seems to be a standard thing there. Tickets always sell out quickly. Memphis did not work for us time wise. When we were there, the team had no matches in Memphis, only somewhere else.
Atlanta only worked because we changed something in our tour. We paused an entire day to be in Atlanta on a Sunday.

Atlanta Falcons in Georgia Dome

Atlanta Falcons compete in the NFC South, as well as New Orleans Saints, Carolina Panthers and Tampa Bay Buccaneers. The teams’ stars are quarterback Matt Ryan and wide receiver Julio Jones. These were also the two jerseys I saw in the audience. The crowds were cheering the most when these two came in (To all Football Nerds: I do not know football very well, I don’t claim to describe everything in here).

The match was in Georgia Dome, Atlanta’s old arena. The new stadium is built right behind it and was still under construction when we were there. It’s supposed to be ready in 2017, the old Georgia Dome will be demolished and more parking space will be built there.
Buying tickets was super-easy. The Atlanta Falcons website directed me to the shop. I could buy these tickets with my credit card und just print them at home. Because these sarenas are so huge, tickets are not that difficult to get. Basketball for example is way more difficult.

Arriving at the Georgia Dome: Party Everywhere at the Parking Area

Just driving close to the Georgia Dome was quite something. We took our rental car and followed the signs in Atlanta to the Dome. That wasn’t a problem at all. Obviously, the closer you get to the stadium, the more the traffic slows down. Moving slowly gave us time to watch everything around us. The atmosphere is really very special: people are basically having a barbecue party in the parking areas. Everyone is in a good mood and happy. Loud music and huge stereos with musical equipment and bass are everywhere. People gather, have a barbecue and listen to music. We were at the stadium very early but everyone was already there. Seems to be a thing to have a pre-party. I only know something like that in Germany when Schumacher was super-popular and people were having these kinds of things at a Formular One race. I cannot say if all these people have a ticket and watch the match or if they just spend time in front of the stadium.

Parking at the Georgia Dome

Parking is easily available, the stadium’s parking area is huge. Parking guides are everywhere. Just follows the car line and you will find a spot. But the fee is 40 dollars! Paying is easy you just give the money to a parking guide at the entrance and get a piece of paper that you put on your dash. As it is the case with big parking areas, everything looks the same. Make sure you remember where you are parked.

Security Check at the Entrance: No-Bag-Policy

One thing that is very unusual for us is the fact that you are not allowed to take any bags with you. This is called No-Bag-Policy. This also means no handbags for the ladies. When I read that on my ticket, I wasn’t sure how strictly this is enforced. I was thinking women do not like to be separated from their handbags. This is a huge difference between the US and Germany: American simply accepts this as a necessary restriction to increase security (or feel you have increased security, depends on your point of view). There is one option to take a handbag into the stadium: every NFL team offers a small, transparent plastic handbag. These bags are allowed. Also, little ZIP plastic bags, similar to the one in the plane. Very small handbags (about the size of a hand) are also possible. Any larger bag like daypacks, rucksacks, seating cushions, camera bags etc. are not allowed. The NFL has a website with all information about this (link below).

I only took my phone and a little compact camera with me (at the beginning in my hand, later in my jacket’s pocket) and left everything else in the car. All pockets (trousers and jackets) need to be empty at the security check and items need to be carried in your hand. Security seemed rather strict to me. I was checked, really checked and security is properly enforced. At a German football match, this is not happening like that. I usually get checked very casually or not at all (not only me, women in general). So that is a huge difference.

Finding you seat in the stadium is not difficult, you can go in anywhere you want and walk an entire round tour in the stadium, if you are at the wrong end. This is again a huge difference to football in Germany where you are just allowed to use the one right entrance and where most of the work goes into keeping different fan groups separately. This was not the case in Atlanta, in that context things were way easier for us.
The stadium only needs one word: huge! 70,000 people fit in and the roof was closed. It wasn’t cool, windy or drafty like a regular German football match.

The Game is About to Start

Now you get to see the cheerleaders and their quite impressive choreographies. With lots of noise (music, fire and confetti) all the players enter. First, the 20 stars of the team, each of them has their name called out and walks in alone. After that the “rest” of the team (about 50 people) walks in all together. All the substitute players (basically most players) sit on benches right in front of the audience. There are no walls, no canopies and no other methods the shelter and protect the players. The players sit on a bench (or stand in front of it) right in front of the audience. Again a main difference to football in Germany.

All the fans make a lot of noise: they cheer, applause, yell and support. But there is no other equipment, no drums, horns, trumpets, vuvuzuelas or whistles. The only thing that is there is a big screen to raise the mood. The wall usually says “rise up” and everyone starts cheering. This is also where the music comes from but it’s all taped music no live music. Samuel L. Jackson is a celebrity who supports the Atlanta Falcons and appears on the screen occasionally. The screen always does something. But it is again an entirely different fan world from everything we have in Germany. A so called fan-culture (as opposed to our football culture) does not exist or means something completely different.

Something is Always Happening

The rules are rather complex, and the game has many breaks. That is not a surprise, everyone who watches football knows that. In these breaks, the TV networks usually show ads, many ads and quiiiiiiite often. In the stadium something is always going on in these breaks. When we were there, many veterans were introduced and honored, awards were given to people, lotteries were held and the host went to different parts of the stadium to have a quiz. Once it even “rained” fanshirts from the roof of the stadium with little parachutes on them. To sum up: something was always going on, we were always kept busy. We were there in November; Veteran’s Day is in November. That is probably why we saw all these veterans, sometimes it’s a different group of people. Anyways, it was never boring.

One thing I saw all the time: the audience always walks around. People go outside, buy pizza, come back in and go back out. Like that the stadium always looks a bit empty, never full or sold-out. In fact, most people are outside waiting in the food line. Screens are everywhere many people watch the match outside on screens. Even in the washroom, screens are everywhere, including every single cabin. Maybe, it’s easier to see what is happening because everything is so complex and the camera always sees more. I have no idea, but it was something I noticed because it was something that is entirely different in Germany. Everyone buys food and goes to the washroom in the halftime break.

Final Remarks

Watching a football game in the US is a totally new experience and very fascinating. A German football match looks very different in the TV and the stadium. The same counts for American Football. I’m saying that even though I have little knowledge about football. I could basically follow and that was the most important part. Everything happening around the match is funny and entertaining. Food and Drinks have regular stadium prices, nothing special here.

We did not like to pay 40 dollar for parking, though. It was a bit too much. Coca-Cola has a parking area near its museum, with a 10-dollar-per-day fee. Walking from there to the stadium is possible, that would have been an option. Also talking the subway is possible.
The No-Bag-Policy is something new to us, in particular for women.

The Georgia Dome will soon be demolished and next year, the Atlanta will be hosting the Super Bowl in their new stadium. That’s really crazy! The old stadium was huge and seemed pretty fine to me. But I don’t know why they decided to build a new one.

Links

NFL: No-Bag-Policy: http://www.nfl.com/qs/allclear/index.jsp

Atlanta Falcons: http://www.atlantafalcons.com/

Tickets at Ticketmaster: http://www.ticketmaster.com/search?tm_link=tm_homeA_header_search&aid=805897&user_input=atlanta+falcons&q=Atlanta+Falcons

Update

In January 2017 the Atlanta Falcons have, after many years, finally reached the Super Bowl again. The last game in Georgia Dome was the semifinal against Green Bay Packers. Matt Ryan and Julio Jones are having and extraordinary season and broke several records. The Georgia Dome has been demolished. All games are now held in the new arena.

Also interesting:

Atlanta – Just Coca Cola’s City or More?

Der Beitrag Watching a Football Game in Atlanta: Atlanta Falcons erschien zuerst auf travelspotting.