Far Away From Everything Else: The Forgotten Coast and its Protected Areas

In Panama City, you reach the end of the Emerald Coast. Highway 98 continues along the coastline. Florida’s Forgotten Coast starts in Port St. Joe. Coming from the west, you can change routes and reach the interstate 10 up north in Panama City (highway 231) or Port St. Joe (highway 71). This is the option to drive directly to Tallahassee on the Interstate. On this northern route on I-10 and the little village Marianna, you can reach the Florida Caver State Park. These are the only cavers in Florida that are open to tourists. It only makes sense to do these caverns when you decide to stay on I-10 because you are now too far from the coast highway.

If you decide to not do that route, you can take the beautiful coastal highway 98 until St. Marks Wildlife Refuge. No matter how nice these coast routes are, you always need to consider that you cannot move fast at all. To do the entire route from New Orleans to Jacksonville on the coast highways, you need to plan several nights on the route. You can go from New Orleans to Jacksonville on the interstate in one or two days but you do not see get to see more than an interstate.

I liked all the retirement homes at the coast along that route, in particular for veteran homes. Spending your retirement like that is a dream, usually good weather and no cold winters.

There are many protected areas on route east of Panama City. For example the St. Marks I mentioned above (as the end point of the route) but also St. Joseph Bay and St. Vincent Wildlife Refuge. Further north, there is Walkulla Spring Park, a recreational area and common holiday destination for Americans with lots of flora and fauna. In Walkulla, the Tarzan Movie from 1938 was shot.

Tallahassee as a Stop

Floridas capital Tallahassee is now close. Tallahassee is not one of the most spectacular cities I have ever seen. But it makes sense as a stop after several days at the coast. Tallahassee it the biggest city in Florida’s North (180,000 people) and has many hotel options. Interesting for tourists are two places: Goodwood Plantation and Museum (a former cotton plantation) and the Knott House Museum, that shows an exhibit about Florida’s history.

In Tallahassee you have temporarily left the coastline. You now have three options to continue your route.

You can go east to Jacksonville and the Atlantic Coast. Again on I-10, it takes 3 hours. You can continue your route further south from here.

A second option is to go north from Jacksonville to Savannah and Charleston.

See Georgia Island

We chose a third option which is to go from Tallahassee to the Okefenokee Swamp and to Savannah after that. We did not do Jacksonville at all to have more time in Okefenokee.

See Okefenokee Swamp

Some Information about the Panhandle

Don’t underestimate these routes. One example: driving along the southern peak of the forgotten coast (on highway 98 from Panama City to St. Joseph and St. Marks till Tallahassee) you need 5 to 6 hours for only 300 kilometers. The fastest route (highway 213, 20, and interstate 10) takes only 2 ¼ hours (180 km). That makes quite a difference. For these costal roads, you need time, rushing along these routes is pointless. You need to pick a few places that are important to you and decide what you want to do and what you can omit.

Anyone who enjoys crusing, stopping every now and then, seeing various nature preserve areas, watching birds or walking along a beach, has found the right place on earth in the Panhandle. Camping option are available and stopping is always possible. You can easily spend two weeks at the coast just doing that.

If you have less time, you are not able to see everything. You need to use the interstate 10 occasionally, just to make miles and drive a bit faster. Otherwise you would be spending your entire day in the car and you only have time for very shorts stops.
I prefer to mix these two options. In this case, that means: spending time outside, see the countryside, beaches and islands, with no rush there but also moving forward. I recommend this tour:

• Start in New Orleans
• First night somewhere between Pensacola and Fort Walton Beach. Depending on time and interest – 1 or 2 nights. Definitely stop in Perdido Key State Park. You can also camp here (or any other location from the Gulf Island National Seashore). Nature lovers and whoever wants to have more time for the countryside should plan to stay an additional 1- 2 nights
• If you like shopping – plan some time for the Silver Sands Premium Outlet in Destin. Depending on what you prefer – you can easily spend an entire day here; Drive to Panama City Beach – on the route you need some time to stop at beaches and swim if you feel like it. Two nights in Panama City to see the city and spend some time on the beach
• Next stop is Port St. Joe. Book a hotel somewhere close to the state parks. Now you have time to visit St. Joseph and St. Vincent and St. George Island
• Next Stop is Tallahassee – if you have time you can visit Walkulla Spring State Park on the way.

Is this the Right Holiday Destination For Me?

If you enjoy nature, like to be somewhere off the main tourist routes and don’t mind driving a bit longer, this is the right place for you. You find nature, coast, beaches and tranquility. Action and Entertainment are somewhere else, Orlando and Miami. I do like nature; it definitely looks different from everything I know from home. Bigger towns are everywhere; there you can get anything you need. You can visit these towns, but it’s not really necessary. Hotels and motels are everywhere, you always have many options. But you definitely need your own car and have to drive 2 – 3 hours per day. Depending a lot, of course, how much time you have and what you want to see. If you don’t mind that, the Panhandle is the perfect place for you.

This is Part 2.

Part 1 of this article can be found here:

The Panhandle: The Part of Florida Most People Have Not Even Heard Of – Part 1: Panama City, Emerald Coast and Information About the Climate

Der Beitrag The Panhandle: The Area of Florida Most People Have Not Even Heard Of – Part 2: The Forgotten Coast, Tallahassee and Route Options erschien zuerst auf travelspotting.

Right after Savannah, the state of Georgia ends. One of the most famous South Carolina Island’s is Hilton Head Island. Hilton Head is about an hour from Tybee Island. It’s a rather touristic place. Tourism on the island prospers. There are many resort hotels, the compulsory golf course, beaches and many activities – basically anything you can think of. Also bars, clubs, nightlife, sport events, many offers for tourists. Right before Hilton Head Island, there is a nature protection area: Pinckney National Wildlife Refuge. You can go hiking, walk on the beach, do all kinds of ocean-related activities (kayaking, dolphin watching, fishing, jet ski, sailing, etc.). There are two big shopping malls. But it’s rather one shopping mall split into two parts. There are also many old buildings, plantations etc. Apart from that, Hilton Head has a very busy art life including theater, ballet, sculpturing, and painting. All in all it is probably the most diverse and biggest of all the islands.

Insiders’ Tip at the South Carolina Coast: Hunting Island and Kiawah Island

North of Hilton Head Island are some more islands like Prichards Island, Hunting Island and Folly Island. I only want to mention Hunting Island and Kiawah Island. Hunting Island is a nature protection area, reachable from the mainland on highway 21 (via I-95) and is located right between Savannah and Charleston. It’s not a national park but a South Carolina State Park. Many locals like to visit here. The island has camping and lodges but no big hotels. Again, you get to see mainly flora and fauna. For film lovers: the Forest Gump Vietnam Scenes were shot here.

http://southcarolinaparks.com/huntingtonbeach/introduction.aspx

Kiawah Island State Park is another interesting place. If you know this blog, you know that I like to point out beaches that won awards from Dr. Beach. Usually, that means these beaches are in their natural state, calm and have very few touristic equipment and buildings around. Also no huge hotels close to the beach. All of this is the case in Kiawah Island. It’s a one-hour-drive from Charleston (south on highway 700). It’s better to reach than Hunting Island. Both islands are calm and secluded without any big hotels.

About the South Carolina Islands

I have not seen all of the South Carolina Islands. The very popular Myrtle Beach is one of the things I don’t know so far. I anyways want to tell you how I see things. My travel agency only offers hotels on Hilton Head Island. They did not have anything for all the other islands and could not say anything about these places. As mentioned above, Hilton Head Island is very successful. Anything you need – you will get it here. The beaches are beautiful; there is a big variety of hotels, restaurants and activities. Nevertheless, I cannot fully recommend Hilton Head Island. To me, everything seemed a bit too fancy, a bit too crowded a bit too touristic. Just one example: I found an ad somewhere that you can explore a swamp area on stilts, without getting your feet wet (???). How does that work? I don’t know. Having a show like this is not my kind of thing. If I want to explore nature, I get dirty. I don’t need a soft version of that.

The United States are far away from Germany. It’s not cheap to even reach there. I want to see nature that I don’t have at home, experience things that are “typical USA”. Hilton Head Island is a perfect spot for a family holiday, an entire summer holiday or something like that. But I can have that kind of holiday at many places in Europe, for much less money, short flights and all in all less effort to reach. Hilton Head is not a winter destination. To me, this island does not have anything that I cannot get easier anywhere else. I don’t need to travel to the US for something like that. I prefer the other island with their nature protection programs. I really liked these.

This article is Part 2.

Part 1 can be found here:

Little Known Islands in Georgia and South Carolina Part 1: The Golden Isles of Georgia

Der Beitrag Little Known Islands in Georgia and South Carolina Part 2: Hilton Head Island, Hunting Island and Kiawah Island erschien zuerst auf travelspotting.

From Jacksonville to Savannah to Charleston: Islands along the East coast

This routes start at the northeastern end of Florida: Jacksonville and leads along the coast to Charleston. I describe all the islands in this order: from South to North. You drive through two different states on this route: Georgia and South Carolina. This is how I group the island. Georgia markets its islands with a nice slogan: “the Golden Isles of Georgia”. The South Carolina description includes anything till Charleston and excludes anything north of Charleston. Famous beaches like Wilmington and Myrtle Beach are not on the list.

The Golden Isles of Georgia: Jekyll Island and Cumberland Island

Cumberland Island – a protected area than can only be reached on a boat – is at the very South of Georgia. It’s the largest of the so-called “Golden Isles” and has restrictions concerning visitors. Part of the national park Cumberland Island National Seashore is open to public, entrance is 7 dollars.

https://www.nps.gov/cuis/index.htm

North of Cumberland Island is a smaller island called Jekyll Island. It’s not far to both islands in the north and south but Jekyll Island anyways has its own road to the main land (I 95 and hgw 17). Jekyll Island is quite exactly in the middle between Jacksonville and Savannah (120 km to Jacksonville, 150 km to Savannah). Jekyll Island also has many nature protection programs: the beach is a state park and totally left in its natural state. In the 19th and 20th century, many wealthy American had their holiday homes here. You can still visit their grand homes. Georgia State has owned the island since mid 20th century in order to maintain its status quo. Also guided tours are available. The Georgia Sea Turtle Center – an animal rescue and protection program – needs to be mentioned in particular. It’s a state program to protect and help wounded turtles. Some more mammals, reptiles and birds are living on the island. If you are lucky, you get to see some of them. There are also some middle class hotels, camping areas and many kilometers of pure beach.

The Golden Isles of Georgia: St. Simons Island, Little St. Simons Island, Sea Island

Further north, a group of three islands can be found. The main island and starting point to the two others is St. Simons Island – a larger island with gulf, tennis, and en entire touristic infrastructure (shopping, restaurants, nightlife, etc.). St. Simons has a bridge to the main land and is easy to reach. Much more laid back is Little St. Simons Island, only reachable by boat from St. Simons Island. It’s a privately owned island and its first priority is to protect the nature. It has only offers a restricted the number of overnight stays. Many rare animals live on this island, for example water turtles come here to breed. The island is very famous for its diversity of birds. Here you find a piece of pure nature on an island that has won several awards for its protection programs.

The second island than can be reached from the main island St. Simons is Sea Island. This time a boat is not necessary, both islands are connected by a bridge. Sea Island has many upscale resort hotels and weekend houses and is only open to guest with hotel bookings or house owners. The island has many golf clubs and is in general a fancy, sophisticated island for the up-market. George Bush hosted a G8 meeting here in 2004.

Savannah’s City Beach: Tybee Island

Tybee Island is Savannah’s city beach. It’s only 30 minutes from Savannah to Tybee. City Beach sounds a bit negative and does not describe this island properly. It’s a small, nice island with many restaurants, small roads and loads of beach. Its atmosphere is cozy and laid-back; it’s not too fancy (like Sea Island) and not too far away. Only the northern part of the island has streets. There are many beach cottages for rent but also motels and very few luxury places. All in all a colorful mix and definitely worth a trip. Wormsloe Plantation is very close (see Plantations of the American South). Doing both makes a good combination.

http://visittybee.com/

Which Georgia Island is the Right One for Me?

All Georgia Island have a very different character. All islands without a road to the main land (Cumberland Island and Little St. Simons Island) are very deserted and usually protected. You get to see beautiful nature, rare animals and plants and all kinds of protection programs. You need some advance planning to stay here and you need to bring enough time. Both islands have limited access. Find out if you need to be an overnight guest to be allowed to enter the island at all.

Tybee Island, Jekyll Island and St. Simons Island are easy to reach. I would not recommend Sea Island, I found it a bit too fancy, too exclusive and too sophisticated. I have great sympathies for Tybee Island. German travel agencies did not offer any hotels on Tybee Island at all. Same for St. Simons Island and Jekyll Island. I really don’t understand why. All these islands are attractive holiday destinations, and Americans like to spend their summer holidays there. Here in Germany these places are totally unknown. I can strongly recommend going there if you are interested in these kinds of places. It’s very beautiful; all these islands deserve a visit. Most likely, you need to book online my travel agency could not find anything except Hilton Head Island.

Geographically you are moving farther north (see Northern Florida). A winter is much warmer than anything here in Germany but not warm enough for a beach holiday. Moreover, winter days are short. These islands are not an all-year-round summer destination. December, January and February are definitely too cold for a beach holiday. From Mai till September, it’s warm. The “between months” March, April, October and November are convenient but not warm enough to swim. We were there in November, it was T-shirt weather. Basically our spring. The beaches were wonderful but we could not swim or sunbathe. You always need to consider that it’s dark at five. That means, visiting in off-season only is the right thing for enthusiasts.

This article continues in:

Little Known Islands in Georgia and South Carolina Part 2: Hilton Head Island, Hunting Island and Kiawah Island

Der Beitrag Little Known Islands in Georgia and South Carolina Part 1: The Golden Isles of Georgia erschien zuerst auf travelspotting.